A few months ago, Tolt invited us to take part in the first HOURRAIL! seminar in Corsica. Although the trip across the Mediterranean didn't go as planned, it did give us the opportunity to discover the length and breadth of this beautiful island, thanks to the Chemins de Fer de la Corse (CFC), also known as u Trinichellu (“the little train” in Corsican).
In this article, you'll find everything you need to know about the Chemins de Fer de la Corse, the different lines, the places you can't miss, and how to book your tickets!
The CFC network is very simple: 232 km long, it is organized around two main lines. The first line links Corsica's two largest towns, Bastia and Ajaccio, across the mountains via the Vizzavona pass. The second line links Ponte Leccia to Calvi via L'Île-Rousse, skirting the coastline and offering exceptional views of the Isle of Beauty. Both lines are distinguished by their beauty and charm. Here's our feedback on these two lines.
This is Corsica's main railroad line. Over a distance of 158 km, it crosses the heart of the island from northeast to southwest, from Bastia to Ajaccio. The stations in both towns are less than 15 minutes' walk from the ferry terminal, so you don't have to take a bus or car after getting off the boat.
The journey between the two towns takes around 3 hours 45 minutes, 1 hour 30 minutes longer than by car, but without the traffic jams and stress of driving.
U Trinichellu takes you to the heart of nature, without stress or fatigue. The line is simply breathtaking: the mountain crossings are sublime, and my favorite part is the view of Corsica's highest peak, Monte Cinto (2706 m), visible on your right as you head towards Ajaccio. This peak is visible just before the Ponte Leccia train station.
The two lines meet at the Ponte Leccia station. It's here that you need to change trains if you're heading for the Balagne region, towards L'Île-Rousse and Calvi.
The climb up to the Col de Vizzavona is equally impressive, with fir forests stretching as far as the eye can see. Vizzavona is the highest point in the Chemins de Fer Corse network, at 906 meters above sea level. From Vizzavona, you're halfway along the famous GR20 hiking trail, easily accessible by train (see below).
CFC also operates three “commuter” lines: in Ajaccio between Ajaccio and Mezzana, in Bastia between Bastia and Casamozza, and in the Balagne region between Calvi and L'Île-Rousse, with frequencies tailored to weekday commuters.
This line was a real “coup de coeur” for me. Even after having traveled thousands of kilometers by train in my life, this line is breathtaking. It offers, in a single journey, a condensed version of everything Corsica has to offer.
The line starts at Ponte Leccia, where you can change trains to either Ajaccio or Bastia. In both cases, timetables are coordinated and there's not much waiting between connections. Heading for Balagne, the train winds its way through the mountains before reaching the magnificent Balagne region, with L'Île-Rousse as its first stop. The port of L'Île-Rousse is just a 10-minute walk from the station. That's what we did when we landed in Corsica, and it was incredible to arrive at L'Île-Rousse by ferry, have breakfast by the water, then board the little train.
After L'Île-Rousse, it's on to the Balagne train and its sumptuous scenery. The train skirts the coast for kilometers before rolling directly onto the beach a few kilometers before Calvi. It's both sublime and surreal.
The stations are located right on the beach, which is extremely convenient! The Aregnu, Balagne-Orizontenovu, Tennis Club and Lido stations are the closest to the beach.
The Raffali-Fiumesecco-Alzeta (GR20) station is the closest to the start of the famous GR20 hike! It's just 8 km on foot to Calenzana, the official starting point of the GR20.
You can find the timetables for the various Chemins de Fer Corse lines here.
Timetables tend to change according to the season and the various works.
In terms of punctuality, it's pretty good. All our trains were on time during our week in Corsica.
Please note that most Corsican train stops are “flag stops”, i.e. the driver stops only if you are on the platform. If you want to get off, you'll need to signal your intention to the ticket inspector.
© Thibault Constant
Prices vary according to the length of the journey, from a minimum of €2 to €21.60 for a journey from Ajaccio to Bastia, for example. For commuter trains in Bastia, Ajaccio and Balagne, a fixed fare of €2 per journey is offered.
There is, however, a card called Pass Liberta, which for €50 offers unlimited travel on the entire Chemins de Fer Corse network for 7 days. If you're planning several train journeys, this pass is an interesting option.
It's not possible to buy tickets online. You either have to pick them up at the ticket office or station kiosks, or present yourself to the ticket inspector when boarding the train. There is no surcharge on on-board fares.
As you can imagine, it's impossible to get to Corsica by train alone. But don't panic, it's perfectly possible to get to Corsica without taking a plane!
The most ecological way is to sail across with Sailcoop, which, weather conditions permitting, will offer you an unforgettable experience with an unbeatable carbon footprint.
The second option is to take the ferry from Marseille, Toulon or Nice. This is not the ideal solution, as ferries emit greenhouse gases and disturb marine life. But it's still more environmentally friendly than a commercial flight and, above all, much more in line with our travel philosophy.
And there you have it. You now have all the information you need to travel to Corsica without a plane. How about it?